"Plug ugly"
Sep. 23rd, 2010 01:01 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
When it comes to mains plugs, the British Type G is probably the gold standard. Three pin so you can't insert it the wrong way, with socket shutters so kiddies can't poke into the live socket hole, part insulated shafts so you can't get a shock from the pins, fused so a short in the wire can't start a fire, it's been built with a safety-first attitude. It says "Yes, this electricity stuff is powerful and dangerous, and we need tiger bars to keep it contained".
You can also swing one on a cable as an effective anti-burglar weapon.
And that's its problem: it's bloody massive. On our recent trip, we had a bunch of universal plug adaptors with us, and for one item we took the Euro mains lead, because it was lighter than the UK plug lead and we'd be able to use it anyway.
So it was with some interest that we encountered the Australian socket for the first time. For our adaptors, using a .au socket meant bringing out the US two blade section, and gently twisting the blades so they were angled apart. And into the socket and hey - unlike the US case itself, where the weight of the adaptor would pull the whole thing down, these stayed where put.
The downside was that on a double socket, we couldn't get two in - the sockets are set much closer together. Happily, there were enough sockets around we could always make use of three adaptors.
(As for HK - they use the Type G - so we used the adaptors for that Euro lead).
You can also swing one on a cable as an effective anti-burglar weapon.
And that's its problem: it's bloody massive. On our recent trip, we had a bunch of universal plug adaptors with us, and for one item we took the Euro mains lead, because it was lighter than the UK plug lead and we'd be able to use it anyway.
So it was with some interest that we encountered the Australian socket for the first time. For our adaptors, using a .au socket meant bringing out the US two blade section, and gently twisting the blades so they were angled apart. And into the socket and hey - unlike the US case itself, where the weight of the adaptor would pull the whole thing down, these stayed where put.
The downside was that on a double socket, we couldn't get two in - the sockets are set much closer together. Happily, there were enough sockets around we could always make use of three adaptors.
(As for HK - they use the Type G - so we used the adaptors for that Euro lead).
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Date: 2010-09-23 12:14 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-23 12:18 pm (UTC)Nice and neat. But since only Brazil has so far adopted that one, I think it may be years.
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Date: 2010-09-23 12:18 pm (UTC)http://www.guardian.co.uk/artanddesign/2010/mar/16/folding-plug-wins-design-prize
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Date: 2010-09-23 12:27 pm (UTC)There are quite a few plug designs used internationally (the US is one of them) that can allow finger contact with live metal but they tend to be used in countries with a 110V supply and so they don't kill too many people each year.
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Date: 2010-09-23 12:31 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-23 12:54 pm (UTC)I suspect this folding plug is in fact vapourware; winning design awards and being a neat idea (and having a nice website) does not necessarily make it a certainty to reach the market.
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Date: 2010-09-23 05:54 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-23 12:34 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-23 01:07 pm (UTC)Why, for instance, must the bathroom light switch be not in the bathroom? Why are houses not equipped with ground fault circuit interrupters instead of every small appliance having its own fuse?
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Date: 2010-09-23 01:23 pm (UTC)Much of the regulations go back to the days when 'ground fault circuit interrupters' weren't available (or 'earth leakage detectors'). Now that they are, well, having fuses as well is still nice.
As for the bathroom issue, when you have 240V (OK, now 230V), and wet hands, you want to make sure that people don't get killed. This means that you either keep the switch outside (in the hope that hands have been dried by then) or use the pull-cord that is pretty well endemic in domestic situations.
As in the basin plug post, I'm intrigued by the way that different places come up with different solutions. The US one is of taming electricity to 120V before it's allowed into house wall circuits. To a Brit used to untamed 240V raging through the mains, the comparatively flimsy US fittings are scary, because they are inadequate for 240V.
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Date: 2010-09-23 01:27 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-23 01:32 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-25 09:09 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-23 01:27 pm (UTC)The fuse thing is because the current standard for British mains current wiring pre-dates cheaply-available circuit interruptors. But if you look in the household mains distribution board you'll see a bunch of ring mains, each with a separate circuit breaker *as well* as the one-per-plug fuses. Result? We can haz electric kettles that can brew up a pot of tea in less time than has elapsed since the last ice age, without burning the house down.
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Date: 2010-09-23 01:30 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-23 01:43 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-23 03:18 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-23 12:43 pm (UTC)http://madeinmind.co.uk/plug.php
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Date: 2010-09-23 01:23 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-23 01:29 pm (UTC)(And as yet another level of defence, these days house wiring must only be done by a qualified electrician.)
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Date: 2010-09-23 02:07 pm (UTC)Where more than one utility is in the same room such as kitchens/bathrooms/boiler room/etc is where it starts to get complicated. At this point a new set of rules kick in, and certification/qualification is mandatory. (And probably inspection and testing too.)
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Date: 2010-09-23 02:17 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-23 02:30 pm (UTC)Hmmm, it occurs to me that I'm not sure how MDB work fits in with Part P for things like just changing a dead MCB. (or a fuse, if it's really old school.)
As much as I can't stand the work, I was "lucky" enough (Part P wise) to do an Electrician Apprenticeship when I left school so Part P certification doesn't apply to me for the most part. I know enough to understand exactly what it is I'm doing, more than enough to know I can't stand doing it, and so avoid it if I can possibly help it. :)
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Date: 2010-09-23 02:31 pm (UTC)Since a lot of devices already in use didn't have fuses fitted it was decided to put a fuse in the plug -- that allowed for low-current devices like lamps to have a low-rated 1A or 2A fuse and things like 3kW heaters to have a max-rated fuse of 13A; the fuse rating matched the device rather than having a 30A fuse (nowadays a GFCI aka RCD) at the fusebox as the only safety backstop.
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Date: 2010-09-23 02:38 pm (UTC)The upside is that it ends up being a lot easier to add extra sockets or light fittings with a bus format.
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Date: 2010-09-23 02:55 pm (UTC)